Talkeetna,
9:00 a.m.
Before hitting the road, I wandered around the village taking pictures,
and grabbed an espresso from the Coffee Cabin (one of four espresso joints
in a town with a population of 772), where I overheard the following
conversation between the girl behind the counter and a young guy who
had just walked in:


"So, what are you up
to today?"
"I'm working on a barrel for a filtration system. I'm cutting holes in
it with a .45/70."
"Wouldn't a drill work?"
"The wood is a half inch thick."
"Wouldn't a drill work?"
"Yesterday Stu loaded the thing with hi test ammunition — 600 or 700
grains. The bullet went through both sides of the barrel, and the
recoil knocked me over."
Although the TV servies Northern Exposure was actually
filmed in BC, Talkeetna looks like a set, and on a cloudless day,
Denali is supposed to be visible. It wasn't a cloudless day.




Denali Highway
Two hours up the road, I stopped at Cantwell for lunch. Another fork in
the road. I could continue northward through Denali National Park and
into Fairbanks, then south to Delta Junction, or I could take the
Denali Highway to Paxson, then north on the Richardson Highway to Delta
Junction. The weather was not promising for the former choice, while
the clouds to the east appeared to be thinning, so I chose the Denali
Highway, even though I knew that only about 20 miles of its 145 mile
length were paved. Time for a little "adventure touring." Except for
one
bad stretch of gravel that lasted about 10 miles, the Denali wasn't too bad,
helped in the first half by yesterday's rains, which kept down the
dust, but were not heavy enough to make the road muddy. Most gas station
parking lots in the Yukon and Alaska, with their gravel and potholes,
present greater riding challenges.

By the time I hit Paxson, at the eastern end of the
Denali Highway, clouds were threatening rain from the south, so after
filling the gas tank, I headed for Delta Junction as fast as I dared ride,
staying a few minutes ahead of the rain. Gas mileage suffered, falling
into the upper 30's, but my goal was to arrive while there was still
a chance to find a room for the night. When I arrived at 7:00, the motel
I chose was nearly sold out. The room was spartan and overpriced, but
with rain coming in, I was grateful to have a roof over my head.
Destination: Delta Junction
Distance: 353 miles